Parts and Resources
Eventually I’d Like To Build a Chopper Too
July 19th, 2008 | Posted by Justin Kaiser | Category: Parts and Resources | CommentsDon’t tell my wife, but I’ve got this secret want to build a chopper when I’m done with the VW Trike project… Maybe it’s from the hours of watching American Chopper, but I’ve been doing some research and thought the following article I found on the net would help you…
How To Build A Cheap Chopper
To build a cheap chopper, you must first define what “cheap” means to you. For some people, a cheap chopper means something in the $5,000 range or less. For others, they might consider $20,000 to create something like Jesse James builds to be a cheap chopper. No matter what budget range you consider to be a cheap chopper, the tips to remaining within your budget are generally the same.
1. Determine Your Expertise Level: Building a cheap chopper means that everything on the sled has to be done right the first time. Expenses of performing re-work due to errors during the build will ensure you run well over budget. For portions of the build which are not within your skills, select an affordably priced professional to do that part of the work for you. It pays off in the long run.
2. Plan Ahead: Do not go into building a cheap chopper half prepared. Do your planning up front. Determine what parts you will need, what the price ranges and options are for you to choose from. You do not have to order every part at once, but have a plan to stick to or you may find yourself attracted by impulse purchases which can run up the cost of your chopper build.
3. Build from the Ground Up: If you really want to keep things on the cheap side, choose parts separately instead of buying a rolling chassis. The more work that has been done for you, the more the build will cost.
4. Recycle Parts: Consider using some used, but still good condition, parts in the build. For example, a frame doesn’t show whether you bought it new or bought a used one after it is sanded down and custom painted. Tanks fall into the same category. In fact, you may have some parts in your garage or on an old bike you can recycle easily and save big on your cheap chopper build.
5. Read, Research, and Ask for Help: Most of the work required to build a cheap chopper is outlined in publications, videos, and you probably have friends who have taken on this challenge before you. Access these knowledge sources. You’ll find a wealth of information, some even step-by-step complete with illustrations about building a cheap chopper. Don’t fail to access every knowledge base you can find. Ask friends to give you tips on what to do and what to avoid. Often, you’ll find your friends want to even help with the wrenching, too!
6. Don’t Sacrifice Quality: When you have a choice between two parts, one costing a few dollars more but offering significantly better quality or options, do not scrimp. A cheap chopper that is built so cheaply that is doesn’t hold up under hard road use is nothing to be proud of. Instead, choose parts and accessories based on a combination of price and quality. You’ll find your dollars will go just as far while allowing you to build a cheap chopper that you can be proud to ride and show your buddies.
You can build a cheap chopper that will last you for years. Just remember to never sacrifice when safety is involved. Instead, drop a few of the flashy options and add those later on when your budget allows.
Books and Resources
How To Build a Cheap Chopper: From $5,000 to $20,000 by Timothy Remus – Choppers don’t have to cost thirty thousand dollars. A chopper built at home can be had for less than five thousand dollars. The key is the use of a donor bike for most of the components. How To Build a Cheap Chopper documents the construction of five inexpensive choppers with complete start-to-finish photo sequences presented in full color
SO-Cal Speed Shop’s How to Build Hot Rod Chassis (Motorbooks Workshop Series), by Timothy Remus, Paperback – The ultimate in street rod chassis design know-how! Tim Remus offers up new tips and techniques for building your own chassis the right way. Do it yourself with a ’50s flair while using the latest techniques to achieve 21st century performance. Remus shows you what goes on in a variety of chassis shops to offer a well-rounded look at your hot rod’s most important asset-the foundation.
How To Build A Kit Bike by Timothy Remus – The V-Twin aftermarket is making it easier and easier to build your own motorcycle. No longer do you have to buy a frame from one manufacturer and the wheels from another. Today you can buy a complete rolling chassis?or a complete motorcycle?from one company.
Book, How to Build a Cheap Chopper, Sportster, Big Twin & Metric – Custom bikes, choppers and bobbers in particular, don’t have to cost thirty thousand dollars. A chopper or bobber built at home can be had for less than five thousand dollars. The key is the use of a donor bike for most of the components. How to Build a Cheap Chopper documents the construction of five inexpensive choppers and bobbers with complete start-to-finish photo sequences presented in full color.\
How-To Build a Cheap Chopper Manual
How to Build a Cheap Hot Rod (Paperback) by Dennis Parks
Foolproof Tips For Finding The Right Deal On Your Parts and Bikes
July 19th, 2008 | Posted by Justin Kaiser | Category: Parts and Resources | CommentsBuy SMART
1. Take your time. Be patient. Some sellers are desperate to sell. Some buyers are desperate to buy. Seek the former and don’t be the latter. Name your best price, and be ready to walk away. An anxious seller will call back and take your price or counteroffer. If not, keep looking. Sharp sellers turn desperation against you, holding out for the high price they know you’ll pay. Desperation also makes you overlook problems, so never buy on first sight. Thinking first saves heartaches later.
2. Pitfalls en route to the perfect used bike. Avoid fixer-uppers. With shop rates approximately $60 per hour, wreck refurbishing is a losing proposition. That goes double for anything more than a decade old. Even if you do the work, ancient replacement parts are outrageous. Try $36.95 for a set of CB500 ignition points. Bottom line: $2000 spent reviving a $300 KZ650 leaves you with a $300 KZ650. Like Internet start-ups, most old motorcycles are bad investments. Safety wire or ground-down footpegs mean retreat. Racebikes, especially ones with amateur number plates, have had a hard life. Be excruciatingly leery. Extensive motor mods, raked frames and such typically mean a temperamental, unreliable or dangerous ride. A pristine stocker is more expensive–and worth every nickel.
3. Ride before you buy. Test rides are vital. The buddy system helps: Sellers are more likely to allow one if you leave a friend behind. If that doesn’t work, let the seller lead the way.
4. It’s simple stuff, stupid! A service history tells you how or if the bike has been cared for. You can’t check valve clearances in someone’s driveway, but appraisals by a good shop or technician reveal much about mechanical health. Look at the oil-sight window and see if what’s inside is clean. Pop hydraulic reservoirs and see if the fluid is clean. Is the engine clean and leak-free? Check around the head and base gaskets, and where the carb boots meet the head. Check the fork seals. Do the lights and switches work? The battery should turn the bike over with authority at first push. Visible tire-wear bars point to a careless owner. Can you pull the chain away from the sprocket, or draw blood from sharpened points on the sprocket teeth? Are the brake pads thin? Are the brake rotors warped, scarred or discolored? Are plastic bits blemished? All of this stuff should be square before the sale, or used to leverage a lower price.
5. Shop smart. Expect more demand for used motorcycles in the spring. Fewer shoppers mean anxious sellers in fall and winter. You’ll pay more for the same bike from a dealer, so dealing with a private party is best. And money talks. Nothing heats up a lukewarm seller like a fat roll of dead presidents. Use the buddy system there, too, and avoid dark alleys.
Online, on paper or in person
WHERE TO SHOP
eBay Motors: Name your price on thousands of motorcycles. You need to deal with buying by remote control, and it takes a quick return finger to outsmart the Bid-Bots dominating online auctions. Still, virtual bidding is fun. www.ebaymotors.com.
Cycle Trader: Available at nearly every convenience store in America, Cycle Trader gets a huge variety of bikes. Regional editions mean you don’t have to travel too far. Search Cycle Trader’s classifieds online at www.cycletrader.com.
Power Sports Network: The bike-buff Web portal lists a wealth of pre-owned motorcycles and dealer overstocks. Participating dealers are contained in a database that’s easily searchable by make, model, age, price, geographic location or all of the above. www.powersportsnetwork.com.
Local Papers: Try the classifieds in your local newspaper for good deals close to home, especially the weekend edition. Hot deals can disappear by 9:00 a.m. Saturday morning, so set your alarm early.
Bike-Shop Bulletin Boards: Motorcycle shops often post private-party ads. Listed bikes are often by good customers, so shop staff may vouch for the condition of an advertised bike.
Walk the Neighborhood: Open garage doors often reveal bikes buried under old golf clubs and gardening tools. Knock on the door and lowball a price. It’s amazing how cheap some people will sell to make an old bike disappear.
Part 1 – America’s 50 Best Used Bikes – Finding buried treasures in the want ads
July 19th, 2008 | Posted by Justin Kaiser | Category: Parts and Resources | CommentsBy Aaron P. Frank
(PART 1–SPORTBIKES) If you’ve been waiting to buy a used bike, stop now. It’s time. Five years of booming new-bike sales–and the endless technological escalator the big factories ride–have for-sale signs on more high-quality late-model machinery than ever. Add a flat economy and shake well; it’s a buyer’s market out there. Sportbikes, standards, tourers, cruise missiles…the deals are everywhere. To prepare you for the pre-owned plunge, we did a little classified scouring of our own, searching the papers, bulletin boards and Internet to find the best deals in the 2003 used-bike market. Our research uncovered some of the best used buys in various categories, plus some tips and tricks for getting the bike you want for the price you want to pay. If you don’t mind spending more time than money, read on.
1. Triumph Speed Triple, 1999-2003Going Rate: $5865 for 1999 models.
NAKED BIKES
Steal-me deals on pre-owned nudity
1. Triumph Speed Triple, 1999-2003
Going Rate: $5865 for 1999 models.
Thanks to its marvelously unruly 955cc 12-valve triple, Triumph’s third-generation Speed Triple is everything a naked bike should be–comfortable, smooth, fast, nimble and unique. What it gives up to Yamaha’s Captain Sensible FZ1 in expediency, the bug-eyed British insurgent recoups in sheer attitude. Opting for a 1999 or newer Triple avoids the less powerful, less refined and altogether less desirable second-generation 885cc engine. Most of the oil leaks and driveability gremlins have been exorcised from the newer Triple. Just make sure the bike you settle on has Triumph’s latest engine-management mapping downloaded into its black box.
Sore Spots: Occasional gearbox problems; misadjusted CO2 sensor settings cause rough running at low revs; sensitive to throttle-body synchronization.
2. Ducati M900 Monster, 1993-2003
Going rate: $4575 for 1996 models.
As Ducati’s most practical two-wheeler (at least until the Multistrada came out), the aptly named Monster combines Bologna’s signature 90-degree desmodromic V-twin with comfortably upright ergonomics, great brakes and capable suspension. The result is a hoot on nearly any kind of road. As the original factory streetfighter, the humpbacked Monster is something of a modern classic. The Monster has been in production for a decade with minor changes, which means there’s little performance penalty–and great financial reward–for finding a clean, well-mannered example. If you can live with less ponies, 750cc Monsters sell for even less.
Sore Spots: Desmodue valve gear gets cranky without regular professional care, so check those eminence records; noisy rear brake (Ducati has a kit to quiet it); flimsy front-brake rotors; assorted electrical gremlins can blow bulbs and fuses; stiff clutch pull; and dry clutch gets cranky in heavy stop-and-go traffic.
3. 995 BMW R1100R $5085
Big, heavy and gangly looking, but handles deceptively well and is as practical and long-lasting as a Ford F150 pickup.
4. 1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100 $4465
Looks a lot like the early 1980s ELR, but with a motor, brakes and suspension that actually work.
5. 2001 Yamaha FZ1 $6265
There are only a handful of bikes with more power, but none are easier to live with. A “real-world R1″ indeed.
6. 1995 Triumph Speed Triple $4315
Although not as fast or as sexy as the current model, Triumph’s first-generation Speed Triple remains a solid, durable performer.
SPORT TWINS
Happy hunting for used Ducks and such
7. DUCATI 916, 1994-1998
Going Rate: $7985 for 1995 models.
This is it–the ultimate sporting icon. The dominant superbike of the 1990s. The epitome of motoart. With Tamburini’s masterpiece superseded by Terblanche’s functionally superior–but aesthetically controversial–999, the ‘94 original has cemented its classic status. Earlier 916cc examples are down on power compared with later 996s and 998s, but hold a line every bit as well and look identical to last year’s bikes–all while costing roughly the same as a new, entry-level Monster. Even converted to euros, that adds up to a great deal. Plus, with an old 916 you get the classic old Ducati logo, which we love.
Sore Spots: Plan on expensive tune-ups every 6000 miles. Premature rocker-arm wear; dubious examples should be checked and/or replaced. Bad voltage regulators (that eat batteries). Worn cush-drive rubbers (that annihilate the rear hub).
8. HONDA VTR1000F SUPER HAWK, 1998-2003
Going rate: $5040 for 1998 models.
Too sensible for hard-nosed sport riders and lacking range for real sport-touring, the VTR is another Honda that never quite found its niche. That’s good news for used-bike buyers. The DOHC V-twin is a gem, a character-rich 996cc motor with gobs of torque, and the ergo package is near perfect for Sunday-morning sorties. Criticisms include lackluster brakes–corrected with stainless lines and decent pads–and a 125-mile touring range. But how often do you get out for more than 125 miles on Sunday morning anyway? $4500 buys a lot of wheelies and a lot of Honda reliability. Or, if you’ve got extra bones laying around, check your local Honda dealer; many still have Super Hawk overstock from 2002 or even ‘01. They go as low as $7250 for a brand-new bike, compared with an ‘03 MSRP of $8999.
Sore Spots: Watch for leaky clutch gaskets and corroded magnesium case castings. Incontinent coolant tanks; Honda’s fix was a hose attached to the offending weep hole in 2002.
9. 2000 Aprilia Falco $7530
The same basic engine and running gear as the track-ready Mille, but withmore relaxed ergos and half-naked styling.
10. 1999 Aprilia Mille $8185
The bike that put Aprilia on the map: Its Rotax-built 997cc V-twin puts down 110 usable ponies and the chassis steers like magic.
11. 1999 BMW R1100S $8340
BMW’s sportiest choice by far, coupling typical BMW comfort and luxury with enough punch from the 1085cc flat-twin.
12. 1997 Suzuki TL1000S $4690
The bike that introduced us to Suzuki’s brilliant, 120-hp V-twin. The reputation for tankslappers is bunk–a wheelie great back-road bike.
MIDDLEWEIGHT SPORTBIKES
Screaming deals on yesterday’s screamers
13. KAWASAKI ZX-6R, 1995-2002
Going Rate: $4440 for 1998 models.
Kawasaki’s middleweight sportbike hasn’t won many shootouts, but with lap times right in the hunt, plenty of horsepower, excellent reliability and way-comfy ergos, the ZX-6R is a superb all-arounder, and a great used buy. (Just try riding that Honda CBR600RR or Yamaha YZF-R6 on a three-day trip up the coast.) The best bets are the 1998 models, thanks to a host of second-generation upgrades. Count on the bike’s perpetually middling comparo status to keep prices down; expect to pay in the low $4000 range for a nice example.
Sore Spots: Problematic cam-chain tensioner can go south on high-mileage bikes; ignore the telltale rattle and bent valves follow. Hard riding mauls steering-head bearings. Fragile wheel paint peels without meticulous care.
14. SUZUKI GSX-R600, 1997-2003
Going rate: $4590 for 1998 models.
This is the heart of the 600 Supersport class. Maybe it’s not the prettiest or the most exotic, but the little GSX-R remains one of the most confidence-inspiring sportbikes ever. The engine is remarkably tough in any well-cared-for example, and you won’t find a more steadfast track-day companion. The 1998 model was blessed with various engine upgrades–a larger airbox, revised exhaust system, different cam timing and reshaped ports that improve power delivery make it a best bet on our list. Ferreting out a clean, well-maintained example can be tough, though. Before you get serious, give your prospects a thorough examination. Hammered steering stops mean it’s had a hard life, so keep looking.
Sore Spots: Watch for a faulty fuel-tank gasket. Worn contacts in the starter housing can cause ignition failure. Check for regular cam-chain tensioner adjustments after 10,000 miles.
15. 2001 Honda CBR600F4i $6005
More confidence-inspiring than your first college girlfriend, the pathologically forgiving F4i is by far the best introduction to the world of super-sport bikes.
16. 1996 Yamaha YZF750R $3690
Sharp handling and 120 hp from 749cc put this one at the top of the mid-1990s sportbike pile. Still a sweet ride at any price.
17. 1997 Yamaha YZF600R $3805
We called the 2003 YZF600R “tough to beat” and “scythelike in the twisties.” A virtually identical ‘97 model is half the price.
18. 1998 Suzuki GSX-R750 $5320
A sportbike legend, with big power in a compact chassis. 1998 is your best bet, the first year for fuel injection anda new, close-ratio gearbox.
LITER-CLASS SPORTBIKES
Buying into the Big Leagues
19. HONDA CBR900RR, 1993-1999
Going Rate: $5395 for 1997 models.
Honda reinvented the modern literbike with the 1993 CBR900RR in late ‘91. Before the RR (known as the Fireblade in other markets), top-dog sportbikes were ridiculously powerful–but also heavy and ill-handling. The 900RR was the first literbike that was truly as light as a 600 and roughly as powerful as the big boys. It took everyone else years to catch up. If you’re looking for the best bang for your buck in this category, a late-’90s RR is the way to go. Our pick would be a second-generation (’96-’97) machine, with its bigger engine (918cc, compared with 893cc), smoother gearbox, more compliant suspension, higher bars and reshaped fuel tank. As with any used sportbike, check the steering stops and engine cases for telltale signs of crash damage.
Sore Spots: Good tires are scarce for its 16-inch front wheel. Cylinder vacuum plugs occasionally go MIA, causing a difficult-to-diagnose miss.The RR is hard on voltage regulators and batteries.
20. YAMAHA YZF-R1, 1998-2003
Going rate: $6800 for 2000 models.
Honda ruled the literbike class until 1998, when Yamaha unleashed its YZF-R1. The 998cc superbike demolished the CBR900RR, neutralized the heavier ZX-9R and laid waste to everything else in its path. Yamaha debuted a revitalized R1 in ‘00 with more than 150 enhancements that made it an easier bike to live with. This is the one to get. The ‘00 R1’s short-wheelbase/long-swingarm frame geometry remains, but the seat is reshaped, the tank narrower and the bars slightly higher. The result is a reasonably comfortable 175-mph road-rocket. Best of all, three years is three decades in a superbike’s life, so you can pick up a ‘00 model for approximately $6800 from some kid who soiled himself one time too many. Buy from the bank that repossessed it and you’ll spend even less.
Sore Spots: Missed shifts (first to second) point to rounded gear dogs and/or a worn shift fork. Steering-head bearings loosen quickly. EXUP control cable seizes without routine lubrication.
21. 2001 Suzuki GSX-R1000 $8115
Nuclear power delivery on a budget. Suspension and brakes aren’t up to 2003 spec, but upgrades are everywhere.
22. 1998 Kawasaki ZX-9R $5445
Underappreciated and often overlooked, a nice used 9R will do just about everything but blow your budget.
23. 2000 Triumph Daytona 955i $6670
European panache without the tall price tag. The injected triple is well-sorted by 2000, as is the sweet-steering chassis.
24. 1997 Yamaha YZF1000R $5000
It’s a little hefty, but the R1’s predecessor has a stinky-fast 20-valve four and impeccable handling. A little extra weight is its only real flaw.
SPORT-TOURERS
Affordable high-speed long-distance service
25. Triumph SPRINT ST, 1999-2003
Going Rate: $6245 for 1999 models.
Nearly knocking Honda’s invincible VFR from atop the sporty sport-touring/GT heap, the Triumph Sprint ST is a first-class blend of refined performance and reliability with European style and character. Who doesn’t love that three-cylinder shriek? If its fit-and-finish score was a 10 instead of an eight, and its retail price closer to $10,000 than $11,000, Triumph might have had a winner. Nevertheless, in the land of the motorcycle classified ads, those numbers are moot. Unlike Honda’s VFR, the Sprint ST can’t match the VFR’s reputation or resale value. For smart buyers, that’s good. Take your pick of clean 1999s–with hard bags–for around six-large. If you rate practicality over investment value, check out the Sprint.
Sore Spots: Erratic fuel gauge on 1999 models; Triumph subsequently issued an improved fuel-level sensor. Faulty gas-tank vent, typically replaced under warranty. Soft, scratch-prone paint.
26. Ducati ST2, 1997-2003
Going rate: $6435 for 1998 models.
After the release of Ducati’s desmoquattro ST4 in 1999, the desmodue ST2 slipped into semi-obscurity. Still, tribes of nomadic Ducatisti prefer the less-manic power delivery of the two-valve V-twin. It’s not as powerful, but the ST2 engine can be more pleasant and less tiring over epic distances. Styling and ergonomics are identical to the ST4; the only other thing that separates the two bikes on the used market is the roughly $2000 you’ll save when choosing the ST2. Shop patiently and you’ll find an eager seller. Whittle him down to the low sixes and roll away happy.
Sore Spots:Weak rear-shock seals. Crack-prone mirror stems. Weak clutches can fail in less than 10,000 miles; basket and slave cylinder are the weakest links.
27. 1995 BMW R1100RS (ABS) $6560
Not as sexy as newer models, the RS was BMW’s first R259 Oilhead Boxer. It’s still a benchmark sport-touring tool.
28. 1997 Kawasaki ZX-11 $5640
Once the fastest thing on pavement. No longer the nastiest Ninja, but still a comfortable, stunningly rapid gentleman’s express.
29. 1997 Honda CBR1100XX $5915
Deliciously excessive. Designed to dethrone the ZX-11, Honda’s 179-mph, 134-hp XX is faster and more agile. Harsh suspension.
30. 1998 Honda VFR800F $5760
Perfectly balanced with gear-driven cams, our 1998 Motorcycle of the Year is a better all-around motorcycle than the ‘03 VFR.
31. 1994 Honda VFR750F $4455
Broad power. Reasonable comfort. Neutral steering. The best do-it-all sportbike in America until Honda upped the ante to 781cc in 1998.
Part 2 – America’s 50 Best Used Bikes – Finding buried treasures in the want ads
July 19th, 2008 | Posted by Justin Kaiser | Category: Parts and Resources | CommentsBy Aaron P. Frank
(PART 2–CRUISERS & Buying Tips) If you’ve been waiting to buy a used bike, stop now. It’s time. Five years of booming new-bike sales–and the endless technological escalator the big factories ride–have for-sale signs on more high-quality late-model machinery than ever. Add a flat economy and shake well; it’s a buyer’s market out there. Sportbikes, standards, tourers, cruise missiles…the deals are everywhere. To prepare you for the pre-owned plunge, we did a little classified scouring of our own, searching the papers, bulletin boards and Internet to find the best deals in the 2003 used-bike market. Our research uncovered some of the best used buys in various categories, plus some tips and tricks for getting the bike you want for the price you want to pay. If you don’t mind spending more time than money, read on.
32. HONDA ST1100, 1991-2002 Going Rate: $5600 for 1994 models.
TOURERS
Large-scale luxury on a lite-beer budget
32. HONDA ST1100, 1991-2002
Going Rate: $5600 for 1994 models. (add $965 for an ABS-TCS-equipped bike)
Honda’s ST1100 is the bike of choice for resolute Iron Butt Association members. Long-distance disciples revere its land-yacht luxury, cargo capacity and relatively athletic chassis. Powered by a transverse-mounted, 1084cc V-four that pumps out 90-ish horsepower, the ST1100 is a paragon of reliability and durability. After an 11-year production run, Honda replaced it with the 2003 ST1300. The 1100 changed little during its tenure, so mid-’90s versions are quite similar to ‘02, but thousands of dollars cheaper. The only problem is finding a clean, used 1100 with an odometer that doesn’t show six-figure mileage.
Sore Spots: Deficient alternator for heavily accessorized Iron Butts. Hearty appetite for front tires. Short-lived, leak-prone fork seals.
33. KAWASAKI CONCOURS, 1986-2004
Going rate: $4000 for 1995 models.
Appearing during the Regan era and still part of Kawasaki’s 2004 lineup, the Concours has had an even longer run than Honda’s ST1100. Although its technology was old school a decade ago, the Concours is still a rational ride for pragmatic sport tourists. Its 997cc liquid-cooled four is mostly bombproof. The removable Samsonite-esque bags aren’t pretty, but they’re lockable, and they work. Shoot for a ‘94 or later model. The venerable platform received its only substantial upgrade that year, gaining new instruments, a wider front rim, better brakes and an upgraded fork. Beyond that, the Concours soldiers on essentially unchanged to the present day. Go for the cheapest, cleanest one you can find.
Sore Spots: Inaccessible engine internals make maintenance expensive. Fuel tanks can rust at rear edge, causing leaks. Feeble stock brakes necessitate aftermarket pads and lines. Buzzy engines until 1994.
34. 1998 Honda GL1500 SE $10,825
La-Z-Boy on wheels, down 300 or so cubes on modern GL1800s, but still plenty of power (and equal luxury) to carry you happily through your AARP years.
35. 1996 BMW R1100RT (ABS) $7710
Ninety horses plus a great fairing and sure handling make this Boxer-powered tourer more athletic than the similarly priced K1100LT.
36. 1993 BMW K1100LT (ABS) $6330
BMW’s best luxo-barge before the K1200LT, the 1100 has solid luggage and an electrically adjustable windscreen.
37. 1997 Triumph Trophy 1200 $5960
Revel in big power from a booming, 1180cc four, great ergos and an effective windscreen. The only drawback is pesky chain final drive instead of de rigueur shaft.
MIDDLEWEIGHT CRUISERS
Cool for the cost-conscious
38. HONDA VF750C MAGNA, 1994-2003
Going Rate: $4750 for 1999 models.
In April 2000, our friends down the hall at Motorcycle Cruiser magazine put Honda’s unassuming Magna cruiser at the top of the heap in its seven-bike sport-cruiser comparison. Here’s a textbook example of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. The Magna combines an otherwise odd mix of components–a 748cc V-four engine, average brakes and suspension–into a refined, well-developed package that’s a hoot to ride on all sorts of roads. The V-four makes useful power from 3000-9700 rpm. With relatively compact dimensions and easy maneuverability, the Magna makes a nice platform for a variety of riders. The Magna is relatively inexpensive to begin with. A new ‘03 sells for $7499. Unorthodox styling of that V-four engine keeps the pool of interested buyers small, which means used examples go for reasonable prices. The current iteration debuted in ‘93, and has hardly changed in the intervening decade. Save bucks and buy a clean, mid-’90s bike.
Sore Spots: Top-end knocking on 1994 models; Honda issued a fix–drilling the cam holders. Poor cruising range; industrious owners adapt Valkyrie fuel tanks. Worn water-pump bearings cause coolant leaks.
39. YAMAHA V-STAR, 1998-2004
Going rate: $3825 for 1998 models.
You’ve got two choices here, both excellent. There’s the chopper-esque V-Star Custom with cut-down bodywork, pullback bars and a 19-inch front wheel, or the V-Star Classic with full fenders, a 16-inch front wheel and a wide-glide-look fork. The same proven, 649cc V-twin with two Mikuni downdraft carbs powers both. The Classic is in higher demand with most cruiser buyers, so expect to pay approximately $500 more. The Classic also handles slightly better thanks to its fatter front tire. Both bikes are excellent choices for new riders, persons of smaller stature or any unassuming rider who enjoys a smaller, lighter, sharp-handling cruiser.
Sore Spots: Weak rear-shock seals. Crack-prone mirror stems. Weak clutches can fail in less than 10,000 miles; basket and slave cylinder are the weakest links. Vibration blurs rear-view mirror images. Gearbox needs another cog above 70 mph. Tank-mounted speedo is indecipherable at speed.
40. 1995 H-D 883 Sportster $4995
An American original since 1957. Slow, heavy and shakes like an off-the-belt Maytag, but still the cheapest (and perhaps most authentic) way to enter the Harley fray. 883cc or 1200cc models available.
41. 2000 Kawasaki W650 $4475
If you celebrate the 1965 Triumph Bonneville, not the ‘48 Harley FL, as the epitome of classic motorcycle design, dig this.
42. 1995 Triumph Thunderbird $4040 Looking like an old Bonneville back from theTwilight Zone, the T-Bird uses Triumph’s stout first-generation 885cc triple.
43. 1995 Honda shadow VLX $2735
You won’t find a nicer middleweight cruiser for less than $3500. The tough, 583cc air-cooled V-twin is asthmatic, but runs forever.
HEAVYWEIGHT CRUISERS
All hefty metal–no sticker shock
44. Harley-Davidson DynA
Super Glide Sport, 1999-2003
Going Rate: $13,295 for 1999 models.
Five years ago, the demand for Harley-Davidson cruisers exceeded the supply of new bikes, and the used market was raging. Used Harleys that were four or five years old sold for more than the sticker price of a new bike. Since The Motor Company increased production to nearly a quarter-million bikes per year, waiting lists dried up, and the used-Harley bubble burst. Classified sections in most newspapers are crammed with late-model Harleys. They still aren’t cheap, but they are below the original MSRP–more affordable than they’ve been in years. Hold out for a good deal on a 1999 or later big twin. 1999 was the first model year for the Twin Cam 88 engine. The extra money buys more power, less vibration and a much-improved transmission compared with earlier big twins. From there, Softails still rule. The Deuce and Fat Boy are still on the high end of the used-bike price scale. For the best deals, consider the Dyna platform. They’re less in demand than Softails, and more affordable. And the twin-shock Dyna chassis out-handles the Softail, too. Our pick is the sporty FXDX Super Glide Sport with fully adjustable suspension and dual front-disc brakes. Check out the Dyna Low Rider if you prefer more classic cruiser looks.
Sore Spots: Stiff clutch-pull. Clunky shifting into low gear. Numb brake feel: Steel-braided lines are a must. Blackout engine finish deteriorates faster than natural aluminum.
45. HONDA VT1100 SHADOW, 1985-2004
Going rate: $4465 for 1996 models.
Want Harley-Davidson style without the Harley mystique? Honda’s VT1100 series is your best bet, mixing classic American looks with modern, liquid-cooled engines and legendary Honda durability. They usually sell for less than a third of what you might pay for a used Softail. If you’re a fan of chopper styling, you’ll dig the Shadow Spirit, with its stepped saddle, slash-cut pipes, tiny headlight and pullback bars. The VT1100 engine is a 52-degree V-twin that uses an innovative dual-throw crankshaft to fool the motor into behaving like a 90-degree twin, greatly reducing primary vibration. Avoid the fat-fendered American Classic Edition, a.k.a. ACE. Thinking a classic cruiser buys more vibration, Honda gave the ACE a single-pin crank. They shake, and they’re slower, so take a pass there.
Sore Spots: More vibration than acceleration from single-pin-crank ACE version. Painful passenger accommodations. Few available aftermarket accessories, especially for Spirit models.
46. 1997 Yamaha Royal Star $6990
A milder version of Mad Max’s V-four in classic cruiser clothes. Infinitely more refined than its twin-cylinder competition.
47. 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 $5315
Got cubes? The big Vulcan has plenty, plus stying that’s vastly improved over it’s homely predecessors.
48. 1997 Honda Valkyrie $7390
Breaking the V-twin mold with its 1520cc flat-six, the Valkyrie is faster and more fun than V-twin altenatives.
49. 1996 Yamaha V-Max $5630
V-Max: the shortest distance between you and no driver license. Welcome to the world’s baddest-bike-for-the-buck, bar none.
A Bucket ‘O’ Bolts
July 13th, 2008 | Posted by Justin Kaiser | Category: Parts and Resources | CommentsAs we plan for the frame, we plan on using 2×3 mild steel with a wall thickness of 2.5mm and will reinforce triangularly with a direct connection to the VW torsion arm.
Parts-bin special? We’re still looking for parts and will be for quite some time, but here’s what we’ve heard of being used in past builds…
- One The headlight comes from a 1972 1100 Morris, the rear reflectors are from a 1957 Vauxhall Velox and the front wheel is an early ‘80s CB 900 Honda item.
- Then there’s the ex-police Harley fog lights, Yamaha Virago handlegrips on self made handlebars and GTS Suzuki rear vision mirrors. Quite frankly, we haven’t got space for the full list.
- Oh, and if you’ve been wondering all this time about how the controls on this thing work, the accelerator and rear brake is worked by the right foot, while the left foot operates the clutch pedal. The gearstick pokes up through the dummy tank, and the only hand control is the front brake on the right handlebar.
You may call our VW marvel a “Parts Bin Special” but I think it will all blend together very nicely… and with the highly specialised VW Trike engineering knowledge of our mentore “Type 1 Bud” as well as the other Trikers we’ve met locally the project could come together quicker than we originally planned.
Planning For Parts
July 12th, 2008 | Posted by Justin Kaiser | Category: Parts and Resources | CommentsOver the past month I’ve been doing some research and looking for parts from donor vehicles for Big Bob. Our VW Trike build is coming along very slowly. As I get caught up on the website, I figured I’d pass along some resources that may be useful for you.
My mentore, Type 1 Bud, uses a Harley Wide Glide front end and manufactures his own neck. He visits swap meets, uses bodies and trunks from Georgia… specifically the Eric the Glassmann at Trikes, INC. In totoal, Bud spends about 55 hours in build time and about $3500-$4000 in parts. I’m sure my build will be much more time and money since this will be the first one I used.
Bud also suggested bodies from Possum Trikes in Missouri or Doug’s Trike’s in Georgia or Rupp Body. I can’t seem to find information on those. Apparently the Glassmann bodies are the best and the trunks from a different resource are a few inches deeper and preferred.
Initially I spent about 10 hours online and making calls searching for a donor car. As I was travelling to Northern IL to pick up a Trans Motor combo I received a call from Bud that he just received a semi rolling trike frame. So that is where we are starting… a pre-1968 swing axle transmotor with a Jap bike front end… I’ll end up doing much cutting, grinding, and welding on it but it seems like it could be a good start for me.
Typical donor vehicles could be a VW Beatle or Karmann Ghia preferably Independent Rear Suspension.
The thing I found interesting looking for a 1964-1972 Beetle Volkswagen was how few were in MY area near Central, IL… or maybe I’m not looking hard enough.  26 million were sold in the United States alone and they are everywhere, backyards and scrap yards, all in various states of disrepair are supposed to bought quite cheaply.
After removing the Volkswagen Beetle body, I’m told you will have approximately 50% of all the parts needed to build a 3 wheeler Motorcycle Trike.
Ideally you are looking for a 1964-1970 – 1972 or earlier Beetle- (type 3s and buses are apparently a bit harder to work with) , smashed front ends OK. Also you should get a title with it or licensed salvage dealer receipt.Â
In addition a reader of this blog e-mailed the following information…
Remove body from frame pan- it’s just bolted on sides , front and back, cut front of frame pan just in front of gearshift mount- about 4 inches/one hand width good enough. Save clutch cable, brake line.
Check savage yard or want adds for a motorcycle frame over 500 cc that has front end yet, get paperwork- title/reciept- also, a pre-1957 Harley hardtail is almost ideal. Remove swingarm or back of hardtail from tranny mount area, line bottom of frame rails to front of VW pan, give neck about 30 degree rake, and drill and bolt motorcycle frame to VW frame pan leaving space for shifter. Check to see how it rolls before welding, leave access for brake line and clutch cable, gas line if using motorcycle tank.
If you have only one leg due to industrial accident find a 69 autoshift Beetle, otherwise make clutch pedal for left foot and rear brake pedal for right side on motorcycle frame, mount seat in center of pan, Battery forward of rear axle, front brake to motorcycle front wheel, motorcycle throttle cable to bell crank connecting VW throttle cable, fire up and test ride.
Mount some rear taillights, use motorcycle front light, call DOT/state Police inspection service for rebuilts and go to inspection lane- best bet is to trailer it. Show both titles for VW and Motorcle frame, salvage yard receipts, and let inspector hit welds with hammer to make sure they don’t break. Let inspector watch you drive in a figure 8 and stop at test line, show all lights work,
Get inspection report and take to DMV for set of plates and ‘homemade’ truckster title- (Illinois term for 3 wheel light commercial vehicle that doesn’t require a motorcycle license).
Go riding, add back seat and cargo pod if you feel like it. This is one way. Note that VW frame has serial/VIN number on frame by transmission inspection plate- this matching title save a lot of waiting at inspectors.
I’m not sure it will be that easy…Â we’ll see…